Lonestar Memories: Colombina on Perfumesmellingthings. (...)Lonestar Memories makes me want to escape the mundane confines of my everyday world(...)

Lonestar Memories: Katie on Scentzilla. (...) Lonestar Memories smells of the examined life. Inside there is joy, and there is tiny heartbreak, e xisting only in reverie. The scent unravels into the consideration of past experiences, and pinings for future joys and heartbreaks(...)

Lonestar Memories: Marlen Harrison's review on PerfumeCritic.com (...) If you're a lover of leather or richer wood fragrances, this is gonna be a holy grail scent and in that case, better get two bottles.(...)

Lonestar Memories: Cait Shortell's review on Legerdenez. (...) Do you appreciate scent because you identify with the scent and its image? Does a scent have the ability to create a memory outside one’s own experience?(...)

Monday, April 10, 2006

open discussion and shocks

Edmond Roudnitska, le ParfumLe beau parfum est celui qui nous procure un « choc ». Un choc sensoriel qui ébranle nos humeurs en première approche, mais suivi d’un choc psychologique d’autant plus durable que le parfum développe alors sa forme posément au fil d’une évaporation ralentie, de telle sorte que si cette forme est originale elle s’inscrira dans notre esprit qui ne l’oubliera pas et la reconnaîtra à la première nouvelle rencontre. Pour être belle cette forme devra répondre à notre attente de nouveauté et posséder les qualités fondamentales du grand parfum : caractère, vigueur, pouvoir, diffusant, délicatesse, clarté, volume, persistance.
(literally and with some mistakes translated into english) A beautiful perfume is the one which brings about a shock. A sensual shock that irritates our senses at first, but followed by a psychological shock which lasts the longer with the perfume developing its form, following a slowed evaporation scheme; this in a way that with the form being original it will inscribe itself in our mind which will not forget it and recognize it at the first following encounter. In order to be beautiful, this form must answer our expectation of novelty and harbour the fundamental qualities of a grand perfume: Character, force, power, diffusion, clarity, volume and lasting power.

This week’s lengthy introduction with Roudnitska again is due to my reading a thread on PerfumeOfLife about my perfumes. It is an interesting debate, even if the bottom line is: There are people writing about my two perfumes that do not like them (at first sight?). Believe it: This is tough reading exercise for me, raising mixed feelings.

Somehow, it is just like sending your blond little baby to school, proud on her new pink ribbon in her beautiful angel like hair and have her come home later, crying because her school friends made fun of her, calling her pony blonde. Thus, the perfumer who spent weeks, months, trying to get the best rose absolue from Morroco and this patchouli that is so hard to get with the expensive sandalwood and trying to balance these naturals with the synthetics to create his dream scent is faced with perfume lovers associating “hemp shop”. Snieff. The perfumer is shocked, too ;-)

But then I read the other comments on this thread and couldn’t but smile because they very much condensed this dislike and unease with my perfumes to Roudnitska’s sentences on the sensorial shock. I talked about it before on this blog and the longer the more I think Roudnitska was very right (see above).

Finally, there are two, three things to add:
-> If a beautiful perfume means one that brings about a shock, the reverse is not true. Not every sensorial shock is an indication for a good perfume.
-> Although I never visited a hemp shop and therefore can not fully appreciate this association, I think I know where this association comes from: It is the smoky underline in the air du désert …..
-> The hyacinth blooms in my garden right now, fighting with rain that pours since 24 hours and it amuses my nose, guides my fingers across the synthetics shelf, trying to come up with a very synthetic, no hippie-hemp shop kind of hyacinth reflection…..
Follow the discussion on Perfume of Life here…


Blogger Anya said...

Andy, let me share my observations on the different emotions needed between those of a scientist (which you are by day) and an artist (your chosen outlet for your soul.) A scientist can produce concrete results, so there is no grey area. You score high on a test, you get a degree, you have objective standards by which you are judged. Or, your experiment fails, and you got back and try to see why, and rarely is the failure taken emotionally.

Now you put on the artist hat, and it is quite a different animal all together.

An artist must always be able to take blistering criticism, because art is so subjective. Hemp shop. Big woo. That's her reference. You will find many who dislike your perfumes; if we all liked the same thing, there would be only one perfume.

This reminds me of when I had my first public presentation in grad school. Three months into the program, we had to make a drawing of a design solution for an urban space. The space was very public, very high visibility, and we were all competitive artists.

Mine was radically different from the other students. Several came by my drawing board and mocked me, one actually saying "that's the ugliest thing I've ever seen." It was spare, focused and perfect in my mind, so I stuck to my design and presented in front of the entire graduate school.

The professor put me up first. I did my presentation, telling of my concept, etc. The professor stood up and said "one design in a thousand wins, and this is it." Every student that stood up after me quoted my phrases, etc., in an attempt to justify their designs, so it was kind of funny.

Another example: when Luca Turin blasted the perfumes I submitted a few months ago, not one of the perfumers was offended or hurt. Several were trained as artists, and the others had evolved to that mindset, so they just shrugged their shoulders and went on.

I read bleatings, very emotional and hysterical, in fact, on other forums by newbie perfumers about how the would be devastated, how horrible those poor perfumers were to be reamed by Turin, etc., etc., and all I can say is they are not suited tempermentally to be artists or perfumers.

You seem to have a good hold on the Roudnitska concept and are licking your wounds a bit in public over this POL bit, yet I see you are dealing with it in a healthy way, which shows your development in the artistic mindset ;-)

You can't please everybody, stick to your guns, Lonestar man, and know that your creations bring happiness and fulfillment to many. The others? Ignore them, and let them spritz their juice of choice, that's the way of the world.

6:12 AM  
Blogger andy said...

Dear Anya
Thank you for your observations... you know, since I got this "wet sheep" comment on le maroc pour elle I am tough! ;-)
Seriously I have to admit that I personally met clients where I had to say that Le Maroc is not the perfume for them. It just wouldn't develop on their skin. Which I still find truly amazing... I do not feel hurt at all and rather feel it is very interesting to see how the same perfume may develop in totally different directions, physically (bringing out different tonalities) and emotionally (hemp shop or mysteries of the east). This is part of the phascination, isn't it?

7:15 AM  
Blogger Jenny said...

Reading reviews about perfumes is a nice and interesting thing, to read the reviews of the perfume you made is completly different, but still very interesting.
There is no perfume that is loved by everyone. Each person has his own "scent memories" and react different on some scents and there is that amazing differents in body chemistry.
One day my sister give me a visit and when she came in the door I smelled something new and you can say shocking. It was a complete new smell and it was very nice. She told me it was Angel. It was perfect for her soft and feminine but when I sprayed it on it was sharp like burned sugar not pretty at all. The same thing with Opium, it's nice on somebody else but on me it's sharp.
So how in the world can you please everyone!
I'm so curious about your fragrances I never smelled them.

4:31 PM  
Anonymous Flora said...

Andy, I have never smelled your perfumes, but from what I have read about them, they are made for "grownups"' and are NOT the overly sweet and sugary offerings for the mass market that are so popular these days. It's like being surprised when you discover a complex, thoughtful film that is made for true adults and not a piece of violent junk for the teenager market - you can hardly believe your good fortune!

One day, I can promise you, I will get myself some Le Maroc Pour Elle - I am now mature enough to appreciate it. :-)

10:43 PM  
Blogger andy said...

Dear Flora
Thank you very much for your nice remarks that I liked very much!
And what follows now is a marketing message ;-)

Please, try the maroc pour elle, and please try also the l'air du désert! We provide samples on the tauerperfumes.com website or you can get them from luckyscents (if you live in the US).... I am convinced the samples are worth trying.

12:00 AM  
Anonymous Flora said...

They have samples of YOUR perfumes at luckyscent!? Oh how wonderful! I will get some very soon! I guess I forgot they were carrying it now. So many that I want are only available in Europe.

I have heard so much about them and how beautiful they are. I hope at least one of them is right for me. Le Maroc seems more likely to be my style, but I also find L'Air du Desert so intriguing. I have really come to appreciate the really complex fragrances.

7:51 PM  
Anonymous Flora said...

Well, I did it - my sample order to luckyscent is done! Of course I had to get some others too - but I was lucky, both of yours were in stock, many are not available. I can hardly wait!

11:06 PM  

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