- a passion for scents and perfumes-
There is no sensual impression like the sensing of scents. Scents touch ourselves deep inside, were we are the most vulnerable and the most open.
I study scents for the pleasure of sensing and I formulate scents for the pleasure of creating perfumes. This blog is about perfumery and my perfumes, existing and coming.
Please share your visions with me.
Dissection As mentioned yesterday on this blog: The lavender is hiding in the woods. Which is no good. But I think I know now what to do next….I will have to recklessly reduce the woods to a thin line. Maybe a few words on how I work generally. I have this idea in my head: Lavender. 4 axes (flowery, spicy, woody, green). Approaching these axes I start with the backbone, like painting with a thick brush I make a large streak of Okoumal (woody), add another one with Cistus (spicy, woody), add lavender essential oil and then add the green line (Muguet, Lilly of the valley). (A short note here: This Lilly of the valley line, I composed myself, trying to abstract the scent to its greenness. You may ask:”why do it yourself if there are ample lily of the valley reconstructions out there already?”- Well, first it is a good exercise and I wanted this abstraction, the green soul of Lily of the valley to be used together with my lavender). These lines are the main axes. Now follows the next layer: Another wood, clove (spicy), menthylacetat and peppermint (Yakima) adding a green, flowery twist, and so on, going from the rough lines to the finer tones. Yesterday, I realized again how thin the line is between a lovely spicy touch and an annoying medicinal pungent disaster. So, back to field one again, keeping the axes (less wood), and the first few lines, but changing proportions. Finally, Okoumal is a wonderful component, very woody, ambergris with tobacco notes, but… I haven’t learnt enough how to use it. It becomes very easily dominant and hides all flowers and spices and green leaves behind a wall of woody ambergris with a slightly metallic shine. Don’t get me wrong, please: I do not know whether I will ever sell a Lavender note. But I just love to learn how to bring out the beauty of this wonderful scent with all its facets. (See also Katie's comments in the last past....a poetic description of Oregon's lavender scents in Summer
I am so glad to read how you work. Very generous. If you wouldn't mind, I would be even more interested in hearing how you further refine the Lilly of the Valley notes. That piquant verduncy is so appealing and without over-sweetness that so many recreations seem to overstress, sounds so appealing! Gail
Hi Andy, I love to read how you work on your lavender fragrance because I'm working on it too. Have you ever thought of trying Hedione with it like it's used in Eau Savage? It works real well with the lavender notes.
Dear Gail.. I will try my best to continue commenting about it... you are absolutely right...too much sweetness destroys it all.
And Jenny, yes Hedione... no I do not think I will go that direction. I see my lavender more on the wild side hehehe... I do not really consider Eau sauvage to be wild.... but it is an excellent perfume. But I am not sure. Interesting you work on Lavender, too... I for my part can't wait for my lavender to finally bloom. I hope for some inspiration there....
3 Comments:
I am so glad to read how you work. Very generous. If you wouldn't mind, I would be even more interested in hearing how you further refine the Lilly of the Valley notes. That piquant verduncy is so appealing and without over-sweetness that so many recreations seem to overstress, sounds so appealing! Gail
Hi Andy, I love to read how you work on your lavender fragrance because I'm working on it too. Have you ever thought of trying Hedione with it like it's used in Eau Savage? It works real well with the lavender notes.
Dear Gail.. I will try my best to continue commenting about it... you are absolutely right...too much sweetness destroys it all.
And Jenny, yes Hedione... no I do not think I will go that direction. I see my lavender more on the wild side hehehe... I do not really consider Eau sauvage to be wild.... but it is an excellent perfume. But I am not sure. Interesting you work on Lavender, too... I for my part can't wait for my lavender to finally bloom. I hope for some inspiration there....
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