chemistry and mysteries solved
Whenever in the past I sniffed Comme des garcons' Red palisander (whichI like very much), there were a few lines in there that I did not understand and now how it might have been done. It became clear that it can't be a complex essential oil isolated from nature's treasure box, but I guessed it is a few single compounds from the chemists treasure box. Now, with my samples from Essencia featuring a few Givaudan samples, I at least have a good guess for one line in Red Palisander what it is and I still like it a lot. Even more than before.
As a matter of fact, there are chemicals that are -although being no complex mixture- very complex per se. I guess 4-(1-Ethoxyvinyl)-3,3,5,5-tetramethylcyclohexanone is one. It is wood, amber, tobacco, red, warm, with something vibrantly cedarwood like, but different. hmmm....yummie stuff. And I saw immediately how to combine this one with lavender. I just can't wait to test this idea.
Two things are interesting here: How complex the impression by one type of molecule might be and how the brain immediately comes up with combinations and axes where this scent impression might fit.
Imagine: If one molecule brings about already dozens of scent impressions, how much more is then in natural extracts with their vastitude of chemical compounds combined.....
For all those of you interested in learning what are main chemical ingredients in natural scents:
Visit Bo Jensen's website here. It is still growing and quite educative.
http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng/EssentialOils.htm
And with these words I send you my best wishes for the weekend. I hide in my perfumery kitchen, admire the Lonestar Memories flyers that arrived yesterday and dream of 4-(1-Ethoxyvinyl)-3,3,5,5-tetramethylcyclohexanone
# posted by andy : 2:02 PM
4 Comments:
The Palisander, if I remember correctly was created by Yann Vasnier. He also created a few of the scents for Divine.
Hope you have a wonderful weekend Andy. Over here we have a nice 3 day weekend because Monday in a Bank Holiday. No doubt it will rain.
Goodmorning Andy,
I love Bo's site, even though my poor brain don't get all of it ;-)
Lavender with that woody ambry thing from Essencia sounds interesting....My own laveder blend is right now extremely a dry, quite male kind. Thinking of softening it up a bit.
Have a wonderfully fragrant weekend:-D
Strange isn't it, one molecule could give the impression of a complex mixture. I would love to try Kephalis also. I love to hear about your experiments with it.
Dear Barry
Have a wonderful weekend too. Maybe the rain isn't such a bad thing...time to enjoy some scents and candles with a cup of hot tea. Here it just started to rain, too. For a few minutes it was just like monsoon in Bombay. Great, impressive!
Dear Ylva
Let's see.... Yesterday I worked on the Lily of the valley thing, and the next will be the lavendel line but before that: making the packaging ready for the Lonestar Memories....busy times and wonderful times! A last word of comfort: I may have studied chemistry, but sometimes I look at these formula and wonder: How is it possible that this smells like that and the other, almost identical molecule smells like something completely different.
hmmm...I definetively have to get on with Mr. Turin's book!
Dear Jenny
Don't worry, I will keep you posted.... I send you fragrant wishes and exciting discoveries.
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