- a passion for scents and perfumes-
There is no sensual impression like the sensing of scents. Scents touch ourselves deep inside, were we are the most vulnerable and the most open.
I study scents for the pleasure of sensing and I formulate scents for the pleasure of creating perfumes. This blog is about perfumery and my perfumes, existing and coming.
Please share your visions with me.
In a sense they are cultural beings, just like us, maybe more driven by instinct’s power within their genes then we are. Just like us they are forming their habitat, building artful dams that allow them to life their way of aquatic life, transporting yummy woody sticks home to their timber castles. We on the other hand build highways to life our mobile live, transporting ourselves in rolling 2 ton metal castles to wherever we want to be at a given moment in time. Which is great but rather unsustainable, therefore our little private mobile existence will sooner or later come to end whereas innocent beaver will still build his water world.
Having reached Methuselah age and finally going there where all beavers have to go one day, after a happy existence in untouched forests, for instance in Canada’s wild north, our lovely beaver is the natural source of a fragrance that is remarkable and was of high value to perfumers in the past: Castoreum, the fragrant extract of beaver glands. It is –in dilution!- a wonderful scent, very indol-like, a dream fixative, woody mossy aspects, a few drops lasting for ever. Now, most beavers these days do not really die in their sleep, modern mobile men is driving with 4 wheel drive into the woods, hunting pretty beaver lady for her natural furry cover to fabricate a less natural cover for uptown beauties. That’s man’s advantage of being on the very top of the food chain; you get furs for almost nothing, some meat with it and Castoreum.
For those among you who do not want to use Castoreum, feeling sorry for little beaver while enjoying your steak ;-) , get Cepes absolute, from Eden botanicals for instance! Not in the sense that it would be a true substitute. This beautiful scent is rather in between beaver’s Castoreum and oakmoss, with edible qualities, very radiant somehow, a mossy sweetness in it, but I guess, it might be an interesting substitute worth considering in love of Mr and Ms beaver in their castle.
Dear Ruby I think so too, very much indeed. For wild musk there is, as long as the animal is so close to extinction, no room and no pardon from my side.
If you like castoreum: I think trying Cepes might be worth a try, not as a substitute, but rather as another way of eventually reaching a similar target. But as far a civet is concerned: I do not really know what a good alternative might be on an all natural non-animal level. Maybe a mixture of Cognac absolute, lovage root? I have no good idea here.
As you know Andy, Cepes Absolute is in one of my favourite perfumes - Mandy Aftel's Cepes and Tuberose. I just can't resist putting a dab on my hand and just keep sniffing it.
Andy, given my love of beavers and other charming creatures, I have a few more replacement ideas for you.
For castoreum, a good natural replacement would be Essence Boulot Rectifiée. Both have a similar smoked meat, leathery aspect.
For civette, how about beeswax absolute combined with scatole and Civittone (Firmenich)?
The use of natural musk is unconscionable given that dozens of synthetic musks are available, and you can achieve any musk tonality you're looking for these days.
I personally think that fecal animalic notes are over-rated, particularly now that modern plumbing has alleviated us from having to cover up malodors with other malodors. ;-)
Dear Daisy I have to admit....I do not know Boulot rectifié, at least not under this name. What is it from? And dear Barry: The same happened to me when applying a little bit on my hand (Cepes, pure from Eden)....you sniff and sniff and it is almost mouth watering and goes down your spinal chord..... Dear Ruby don't bother ordering your sample of Cognac green... a sample of cognac green will be included into the package (which will hopefully be packed today....)
Essence boulot rectifiée translates to birch tar oil, I believe. I figured since you are Swiss Andy, I could get away with using the French. This is a fairly widely used note in classical perfumery to achieve a leather note. It's actually classified as a phenolic note, and not an animalic note. What they do is burn the bark of the birch tree to release its tar, and then they distill that to get the essential oil.
All clear now...rectified birch tar. One of my daily companion. I didn't know the term in french, but you are right, a wonderful but not phenolic scent. For me it is almost powdery and a daily companion as I am working on this leather note ... Thank you for your French lession...I have to admit, French is a weakness of mine. Have a wonderful evening!
Essence bouleau rectifiée is the correct term :) Dear Andy for the synthetic castoreum replacements what company wins the quest in your opinion? Biolandes, IFF, Robertet, Firmenich or Synarome ? :)
7 Comments:
Dear Ruby
I think so too, very much indeed. For wild musk there is, as long as the animal is so close to extinction, no room and no pardon from my side.
If you like castoreum: I think trying Cepes might be worth a try, not as a substitute, but rather as another way of eventually reaching a similar target. But as far a civet is concerned: I do not really know what a good alternative might be on an all natural non-animal level. Maybe a mixture of Cognac absolute, lovage root? I have no good idea here.
As you know Andy, Cepes Absolute is in one of my favourite perfumes - Mandy Aftel's Cepes and Tuberose. I just can't resist putting a dab on my hand and just keep sniffing it.
Barry
Andy, given my love of beavers and other charming creatures, I have a few more replacement ideas for you.
For castoreum, a good natural replacement would be Essence Boulot Rectifiée. Both have a similar smoked meat, leathery aspect.
For civette, how about beeswax absolute combined with scatole and Civittone (Firmenich)?
The use of natural musk is unconscionable given that dozens of synthetic musks are available, and you can achieve any musk tonality you're looking for these days.
I personally think that fecal animalic notes are over-rated, particularly now that modern plumbing has alleviated us from having to cover up malodors with other malodors. ;-)
Dear Daisy
I have to admit....I do not know Boulot rectifié, at least not under this name. What is it from?
And dear Barry: The same happened to me when applying a little bit on my hand (Cepes, pure from Eden)....you sniff and sniff and it is almost mouth watering and goes down your spinal chord.....
Dear Ruby
don't bother ordering your sample of Cognac green... a sample of cognac green will be included into the package (which will hopefully be packed today....)
Essence boulot rectifiée translates to birch tar oil, I believe. I figured since you are Swiss Andy, I could get away with using the French. This is a fairly widely used note in classical perfumery to achieve a leather note. It's actually classified as a phenolic note, and not an animalic note. What they do is burn the bark of the birch tree to release its tar, and then they distill that to get the essential oil.
All clear now...rectified birch tar. One of my daily companion. I didn't know the term in french, but you are right, a wonderful but not phenolic scent. For me it is almost powdery and a daily companion as I am working on this leather note ...
Thank you for your French lession...I have to admit, French is a weakness of mine.
Have a wonderful evening!
Essence bouleau rectifiée is the correct term :)
Dear Andy for the synthetic castoreum replacements what company wins the quest in your opinion?
Biolandes, IFF, Robertet, Firmenich or Synarome ? :)
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