Lonestar Memories: Colombina on Perfumesmellingthings. (...)Lonestar Memories makes me want to escape the mundane confines of my everyday world(...)

Lonestar Memories: Katie on Scentzilla. (...) Lonestar Memories smells of the examined life. Inside there is joy, and there is tiny heartbreak, e xisting only in reverie. The scent unravels into the consideration of past experiences, and pinings for future joys and heartbreaks(...)

Lonestar Memories: Marlen Harrison's review on PerfumeCritic.com (...) If you're a lover of leather or richer wood fragrances, this is gonna be a holy grail scent and in that case, better get two bottles.(...)

Lonestar Memories: Cait Shortell's review on Legerdenez. (...) Do you appreciate scent because you identify with the scent and its image? Does a scent have the ability to create a memory outside one’s own experience?(...)

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

Green things

First an urgent call to Greeneyes… contact me please because you are the lucky winner of last weekend’s benevolent blogging.
Talking about green things…. I am faced with an out of control vegetation in my little garden. A private jungle with some coloured, nicely smelling spots interspersed, a constant memento of things that should be done and aren’t done. (see pix)
Talking about another green thing: Lavender, being the object of a hate-love relationship in my personal perfumery work. Looking at it from an analytical, but personal point of view, I see 4 important axes to consider when working with Lavender:
Sweet flowery
Airy woody
Overlaying these axes: The fact that Lavender may be used as top note, middle note with some troubles, and is hard to be extended.
From time to time I am brave enough to look at it again, face my misery of not having one nice formula constructed for a Fougère that would go beyond really simple sketches. Yesterday’s experiment: Lilley of the valley notes entering the floor after a vibrant Lavender start. I love Lilley of the valley, smelled them yesterday afternoon again and thought that this green flower scent, with limited sweetness, might work nicely. Considering the whole session as a learning experimental thing, without any ambition to get somewhere specific (l’art pour l’art kind of thing), I was producing a nice washing powder scent initially, which by more additions turned into something less agreeable. Thus, you want to perfume your washing powders? Linalool, lavender, lilial, methyl-cyclomyrrhketon will do the job…..

Next: The initial idea is not bad, maybe I should first get the Lilley of the valley blend and then build things around it? We will see.


Blogger Jenny said...

Dear Andy,
Funny I'm working on a Fougere as well (see my post: http://perfumemaking.blogspot.com/2006/05/paradise-of-lovely-fragances.html) and think the Lavender needs Amyl salicylate and Coumarine. I like to soften the Lavender notes with powdery woody notes. I think the Lavender needs to be softened. It's a fresh herbal note that's easy get to be too fresh(like soaps and washingpowders) by adding to much citrus and other 'clean' notes.

3:12 AM  
Blogger andy said...

Absolutely, Jenny, I agree (have you read my post of July 2005 about english fern from Penhaligon? But I want more,like you, for my I want a green flower with it, not too sweet, not to fresh and some woody aspects in the back , but not too much oakmoss....
difficult. Here is the link to the english fern post...

3:55 AM  
Anonymous Anya said...

Ah, we see the term "axes" creeping into the perfumer's lexicon ;-) The landscape architect in me takes a deep bow.

Andy, have you used lavender absolute? I adore it, and it really help extend the top/middle marriage. Also, years ago, when doing my tedious, but necessary Carles exercises, I discovered a 1:4 lavender/patchouli accord is da bomb for fixative powers - used in addition to the lavender in the blend.

3:58 AM  
Blogger greeneyes said...

Thank you Andy! I had forgotten about the contest. I was all over the place on Sunday, trying to get comments in for the Benevolent Blogging project. I will contact you today. I'm excited!

8:06 AM  
Anonymous Prince Barry said...

I love lavender scents. The 2 nicest lavender scents accordong to my nose are Caron Pour un Homme and Goutal's Eau de Lavande. I am am doing my best to like Luten's Gris Clair, but I seem to be struggling with that one.

Glad to note that you like English Fern, Andy. This is one that I loved for many years. My favourite from Penhaligon's is Hammam Bouquet.

10:36 AM  
Blogger andy said...

Dear Anya
I know Lavender absolute and got a good one, but I find it very hard working with it, there is a "sweetness" associated with it that I do not appreciate, but you are right, it helps prolonging and I think I could try to combine it with coumarine, or tonka beans (which is 50% coumarine anyway, but much finer).
The patchouli combination so far did not work with me...

11:42 AM  
Blogger andy said...

Dear Barry
Aha....again something in common: Caron pour un home, a wonderful composition, again so balanced, and so elegant, without ever becoming or turning cheap or trashy. for me this is a classic that stand very, very high!

11:44 AM  
Blogger andy said...

Congratulations again! I got your mail and will reply to you soon.
Right now I am just relieved that I found my winner and I sincerely hope you will enjoy your well deserved price.
It is exciting for me as this is a first in my life; I never had a competition so far....

11:47 AM  
Blogger Jenny said...

Dear Andy, that was a nice post and I see there is a powdery note in English Fern as well. Personally I wouldn't choose to use the lemongrass, I use lemongrass in the water if I clean my house. It reminds me to much of soap. Verbena is much nicer I think, but it's sadly banned by IFRA and only the absolute can be used at 0.2%.

2:41 PM  

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