Closer look at orange flower

Today, finally, there was some time to have a closer look at the orange flower again. The result... I have to wait for some time... but at the moment I am pleased.



As mentioned earlier here, a draft exists bringing out the spicyness and woody character of the flower. Today, I was rethinking it yet again. I wanted it somewhat softer, more floral, with a spicy, woody, slightly green touch to it, but without this narcotic and sweet side that is present in the absolute.

I want to have an orange tree blooming in the middst of old cedarwoods with lots of spicy bushes at a nearby spring sending fresh waves of piquant air.

Starting with the naturals, I strengthened a present but weak Chypre accord (adding oakmoss to the already present patchouli, within the IFRA limits), building up the bergamot head with white grapefruit and increasing the cistus string in the middle and body. I increased the amount of orange flower absolute (maroccan and spanish quality... a dream to work with, but somewhat costly) and jasmin absolute. Finally , I added some lavender and clove flower oil to make the head and middle accords a little bit more thrilling, crispy and spicy.

Using synthetic vanillin and sandelwood I softened the base which was still too harsh cypress/cedar wood type (due to the Methylcyclomyrceton and cedrylacetate employed). Finally, I rounded up the vetiver base with some birch tar and castoreum.

The orange flower accord in the middle: Quite complex with the absolutes mentioned above, and pumped up by nerol, neroli, methylantranilate, methyl-beta-naphtylketone, some beta-ionone, C12 MNA and 4-trans decenal.