Lonestar Memories: Colombina on Perfumesmellingthings. (...)Lonestar Memories makes me want to escape the mundane confines of my everyday world(...)

Lonestar Memories: Katie on Scentzilla. (...) Lonestar Memories smells of the examined life. Inside there is joy, and there is tiny heartbreak, e xisting only in reverie. The scent unravels into the consideration of past experiences, and pinings for future joys and heartbreaks(...)

Lonestar Memories: Marlen Harrison's review on PerfumeCritic.com (...) If you're a lover of leather or richer wood fragrances, this is gonna be a holy grail scent and in that case, better get two bottles.(...)

Lonestar Memories: Cait Shortell's review on Legerdenez. (...) Do you appreciate scent because you identify with the scent and its image? Does a scent have the ability to create a memory outside one’s own experience?(...)

Wednesday, July 13, 2005

Penhaligon’s English Fern

Since a long time on the market (1900 plus something? I don't really know!) but still selling well, “English Fern” by Penhaligon is one of the classical Fougères. (basis of Fougères is Coumarin, a natural compound found also in Lavender extracts, often combined with Lavender itself)
A wonderful scent with a somewhat crispy Citrus-Lavender head note, with powdery nuances which become more dominant as the perfume evolves into Lavender dominated heart note. Working on this powdery aspect, I came yesterday to the conclusion; it must be iso-amyl Salicylate, among others. Eventually, there is a hint Vanillin in the back. At the base you will find Coumarin, for sure, with additional aspects where I am not quite sure: Tobacco might be a good guess.
Et voilà: The core structure of English fern, which I adore for its cleanness and which is my inspiration for a Lavender note of my own.
My interpretation towards a Fougère:
0.125 parts Tobacco absolute
0.5 parts Coumarin
1 part iso-amyl Salicylate
0.25 parts Lavender abs.
0.5 parts Lavender from Bulgary
0.125 parts Lemongrass
A core structure which in this form is quite close to English fern.
My vision is to work on the head note by adding Linalool-based extracts, such as Corriander, Rosewood, … and by extending the Citrus head, Bergamot, Grapefruit being a good guess; to open up the heart, make it more complex and flowery (rose?) and adding an extra twist to the base, to be continued….


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