- a passion for scents and perfumes-
There is no sensual impression like the sensing of scents. Scents touch ourselves deep inside, were we are the most vulnerable and the most open.
I study scents for the pleasure of sensing and I formulate scents for the pleasure of creating perfumes. This blog is about perfumery and my perfumes, existing and coming.
Please share your visions with me.
Since a long time on the market (1900 plus something? I don't really know!) but still selling well, “English Fern” by Penhaligon is one of the classical Fougères. (basis of Fougères is Coumarin, a natural compound found also in Lavender extracts, often combined with Lavender itself) A wonderful scent with a somewhat crispy Citrus-Lavender head note, with powdery nuances which become more dominant as the perfume evolves into Lavender dominated heart note. Working on this powdery aspect, I came yesterday to the conclusion; it must be iso-amyl Salicylate, among others. Eventually, there is a hint Vanillin in the back. At the base you will find Coumarin, for sure, with additional aspects where I am not quite sure: Tobacco might be a good guess. Et voilà: The core structure of English fern, which I adore for its cleanness and which is my inspiration for a Lavender note of my own. My interpretation towards a Fougère: 0.125 parts Tobacco absolute 0.5 parts Coumarin 1 part iso-amyl Salicylate 0.25 parts Lavender abs. 0.5 parts Lavender from Bulgary 0.125 parts Lemongrass A core structure which in this form is quite close to English fern. My vision is to work on the head note by adding Linalool-based extracts, such as Corriander, Rosewood, … and by extending the Citrus head, Bergamot, Grapefruit being a good guess; to open up the heart, make it more complex and flowery (rose?) and adding an extra twist to the base, to be continued….
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